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Frequently Asked Questions
Most situations can be solved very simply, so please review the frequently asked questions below before you give us a call.
I have seen discrepancies between different producers of similar sized 100% beeswax candles. You're 3"x5" cylinder burns for 180 – 200 hrs and others claim only 55-65 hr for the same dimensions. What makes yours different? Do they really burn for 180 hrs?
This is one of the questions we are occasionally asked. Without knowing the company the person is referencing us to, I can only compare what I know of our products and the general reasons I have found to be relevant previously.
Over the years I have seen other candles which are similar to our sizes, that referencing lesser hours of burn time than ours. The statements listed below summarize the general reasons for these variances. Not knowing the company your customer is comparing us to, you can use this as a guide for inquiry.
The size and type of wick used can greatly affect the burn time. A white wick in a pillar candle of this size would have to be of a large diameter wick to properly melt a pool in a 3” wide candle and this would shorten the burn time. All pillars made by Pheylonian Productions incorporate a handmade custom natural plant fiber wick which is designed to burn with the most efficient function to maximize the best burn time for that diameter.
I have seen many beeswax candles that only burn down the middle, leaving a ‘shell' which would account for much shorter burn time, as well as creating a waste of valuable beeswax. The natural wicking used in a Pheylonian Candle allows the user to ‘hug' the sides, which utilizes all of the wax fuel, for maximum efficiency.
If a candle maker is buying ‘wax' from a beekeeper and not delineating ‘cappings' wax,,, then their beeswax can actually be up to 30% paraffin because the beekeeper has rendered the cappings along with the comb and the foundation. Foundation is the thin sheet of wax which the bee uses to build the thousands honeycombs which are used for storing honey and hatching babies. For the past 30 – 40 years, beekeepers have been supplied with paraffin foundation rather than beeswax because it is cheaper. Having 30% paraffin in the candle would shorten the burn time as well as eradicating the negative ion functions of pure beeswax.
Most beeswax candle suppliers do not bother to educate their customers on the label as to ‘how to burn your beeswax candle' and the hours they state on the label takes into account that many people just ‘let it burn' and the fact that they do not necessarily trim the wick appropriately. An untrimmed wick will consume a candle much faster which would definitely account for less burn times.
Definition of a ‘Beeswax Candle' by Canadian and American law - By Canadian and American Law, a candle manufacturer must put a minimum of 10% beeswax into a candle to sell it as a pure beeswax candles.
By far the biggest reason why some beeswax candles burn less time than a Pheylonian Candle of similar size boils down to how much pure beeswax is actually in the mix. As you can see by the above statement, by Canadian and American Law, a candle manufacturer can put as little as 10% beeswax into a candle and sell it as a pure beeswax candles. Some producers use 40% or as much as 60% to give more of the beeswax presence,,, either way, this is not right. Ultimately this means that these candles contain anywhere from 90% to 40% paraffin, or even worse,,, microcrystalline wax. Microcrystalline wax is a wax composition which is mostly paraffin with other components giving it the texture of beeswax but none of the long burning, non-toxic or negative ion producing properties.
To further complicate the layman's ability to determine the percentage of pure beeswax in a candle, there is a ‘beeswax fragrance' which candle makers use to mimics the scent of beeswax when they use mostly paraffin or microcrystalline wax. Unfortunately, when synthesized fragrances are burned in a candle, they create floral carbons that become air borne and when breathed in, they destroy your olfactory senses with repeated use. This is explained in greater detail in our article on ‘Two Cents about Scents'.
Ultimately, I recommend that people do their own diligence of determining the practices and criteria by which a company gives the customer what they state. We have a huge following of dedicated customers because they know and honour the quality of ingredients and intention that goes into each item we produce. We are in our 40th year of business and we feel that we are still here as a thriving company because of our integrity and dedication to purity and function of everything we make.
Pheylonian Beeswax Candles – the biggest difference with a Pheylonian Candle is:
The quality of our wax (100% Pure Cappings Beeswax) and our natural wicks. We use only 100% pure CAPPINGS beeswax and our wicks are a natural plant fiber which has been put through our secret family process prior to being placed in the candle. Each wick is specifically designed for that particular product.
That each product comes with complete instructions on ‘How to Burn a Pheylonian Candle' along with information that educates the user to get the most value from their candle.
That each vat of wax is tested for the particular product that it is being used for. Most people, including other candle makers are not knowledgeable as to fact that not all beeswax is the same. Unlike paraffin, which is a specific chemical substance produced in massive quantities by the petroleum industry, beeswax is collected in smaller batches and is sourced from a wide variety of crops which impart various qualities, effecting the viscosity, burn temperature and colour. We are very particular about all of our suppliers, especially our wax.
Most of our wax comes from the Canadian Prairies, which has one of the healthiest bee populations in the world. This area is not currently affected by the varroa and tracheal mites, hence the beekeepers are not putting the toxic neuro chemical into the hives to eradicate the mites. These chemicals compromise the immune systems of the bees and are one of the reasons for the Critical Colony Collapse issue which is affecting many major honey producers throughout the world. For our perspective on this whole dilemma, take a few minutes to read ‘The Buzz about the Problem with the Bees!'
My wick is off center!
This can occur for two reasons.
1 - When the candle has been burning for a long time, the pool gets very soft and the wick may settle a little to one side. Also, when the wick is extinguished by dunking, it is important to straighten the wick back into its centered, upright position, before the wax solidifies.
2 - On rare occasions, our wick may be slightly off center in some section of the candle.
Either way, this is easily corrected. Light your candle and let it burn for 1 - 2 hours. Using a pair of scissors, a chopstick, etc., slide the implement down the side of the wick that is off center. Go down about ¾ - 1" deep. Do this on the side that is too close to the edge and ‘push’ the wick gently into the center. Hold the candle firmly with the other hand when doing this.
I can’t light my candle!
Our plant fiber wicks are substantial and the best way to light any of our candles is to ‘tilt’ the candle so you can get the flame ‘under’ the wick. It is advisable to use a lighter or wooden match, although the barbeque starters are great. Paper matches are not sufficient, except with tapers, tealites, etc.
What should I do with the left over wax from my candles?
Never throw out left over beeswax. All the scraps from your candles ie: bottom of tapers, pillars, orbs, obelisks, residue in votive or glass filled candles and survival cans, etc. can be reused in any of the Pheylonian beeswax candles, especially the natural fibre wick candles. It's all fuel and should be used in any way possible.
For information on the various uses of beeswax, view the section on "uses of beeswax".
'Topping Up’ with Leftover Beeswax
Never throw out any beeswax that is left over at the bottom of your candle or scraps which may have dripped down the candle. This is valuable fuel that can be added back into your new candles to extend their burning life.
Unlike any other candle on the market, Original Pheylonian Candles love to be fed, especially our pillar and orb candles with a 3"+ diameter. They can be ‘topped up’ with any leftover beeswax from previous candles. The reason you can do this is because of our wicking, which does not get shorter on its own. In fact, adding leftover scraps into your candles is a great way to bring up the level of the pool and hence, shorten the wick. Do not 'top up' mini-lites, votives, tapers or any glassware with white cotton wicks.
Votives and Survival Cans - Votives are great to top up because of the solid sides of the holders.
How do I clean wax out of glassware holders?
Glass Cleaning Tip ~ Prior to putting the replacement candle into the glass holder, it is best to clean the glass. Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Line an aluminum pie plate with 4 layers of paper towel and place the glass holder upside down on the tray. Place in oven and set timer for 4 minutes. Remove the glass from the oven using an oven mitt d gently wipe the inside of the glass with a clean paper towel. Repeat if necessary.
Pillars and Orbs - Our 3"+ pillars and orbs are the best size to top up. As the pool burns down, the wick gets taller and so does the flame. To adjust this with ‘scraps’, push in a little of the sidewall wax to ensure that the pool edge is at least ¼" wide, then add enough scraps to raise the pool to where the wick is back to about 3/16". Be cautious not to add too much, as you can drown the wick.
My candle smokes a lot when I blow it out!
Why you should never ‘blow out’ your Original Pheylonian Beeswax Candle.
The plant fiber wicks that are used in our candles work by conducting the liquid beeswax up the wick to the flame, very much like an oil lamp. If you blow out the flame, this type of wick continues to smoke and smolder. Smoldering means there are still small embers burning inside the wick, burning the wax out of the fibers. Generally, this will not completely damage the wick, however, it could leave the wick brittle and unable to re-light and hold a flame properly.
Ideally, your candle should always be extinguished using a snuffer or by being ‘dunked’. ‘Dunking’ is a method of dipping the wick into its own pool of liquid wax using an implement like a pencil, chopstick, and the point of your wax scissors or even a small stick.
Do I have to keep my candles in the freezer?
No. Not at all. People keep paraffin candles in the freezer because they burn so fast, and having them frozen makes them last a little longer. Beeswax actually has a much higher melting temperature than paraffin which melts or gets very soft in 80 – 90 degree weather. Beeswax softens at about 140 degrees making it far more functional in products like our Original Pheylonian Survival Candles as they will not melt all over your trunk or supplies in very hot weather.
Should I put all of my candles on a candleholder?
It is always wise to put something that is flame resistant under any candle, but you don’t have to go out and buy something fancy. We have often times used old plates or saucers from dinnerware sets. You can find really funky plates and even shallow bowls at dollar stores which will work just fine.
- Tapers should always be secured into a proper sized candleholder.
- Tealites should also be on a heat resistant surface or in a tealite holder made of glass, steel or rock, as the metal cup can get very hot. The high temperature, acrylic tealite cups are the exception.
Caution - Never Leave a Burning Candle Unattended!
My candle keeps melting through one side and leaking!
This is most often due to the wick being too long or a draft blowing the flame and the heat to one side. Always check the wick length before lighting during its burn time, along with being aware of any significant drafts in the room.
It may be because the candle you are using is not suited to the length of time you candles for. Example: if you burn a CG2 candle, which is only 2.5 inched wide, for an average of 3 – 4 hours, you have to start pushing the sides in and checking the wick by hour 2. You would be better suited to burn a Temple Lite (3.5" diameter) candle or an Eternal Flame (4.5" diameter).
The other reason for this can be that the wick is off center and is burning to one side too quickly. Refer to ‘My wick is off center’ at the top of the page.
Why is the wax on the inside of the candle different than the colour on the outside?
Beeswax comes in quite a wide variety of shades and earth tones. During our decades of working with beeswax, we have defined the tones people like the best. We selectively use the less attractive colours of the pure beeswax in the cores and dress the outsides with hand dripped or dipped applications of the more attractive tones of wax which we selectively mix in large batches.
See the Colours of Beeswax page for more comprehensive information.
My candle has this whitish looking film all over it. Is it mold?
No, this is simply a natural reaction of pure cappings beeswax. Over time, beeswax naturally produces a whitish film on the outside of the candle. This is called ‘bloom’ and is the natural tannin that is exuded from pure beeswax, and a sign of purity.
You can get rid of it by handling your candle with warm hands or simply use a hair dryer on a low setting. Watch as the bloom disappears and the candle takes on a fresh, shining appearance. The hair dryer is particularly helpful on the hand-dripped candles as it is easier to de-bloom the crevices and cracks.
Bloom from cappings beeswax is actually the most expensive cosmetic known on the planet today and was similarly revered in many ancient cultures. As your candles develop this whitish film over time, simply rub your finger tips over the candle to remove the bloom, and then gently apply the bloom to the skin around your face, particularly the temples and brow, or to your hands or other dry spots.
My candle near the window seems to be getting fainter in colour.
Beeswax is like any other natural item; it will fade or become lighter in colour if exposed to direct or semi-direct sunlight. Keep out of direct sunlight.
‘Crack’ or crevice in the top of your candle. When our pillar or orb candles with the wider diameters (Eternal Flames and Triple Reactors) are burned for an extended length of time, and the wicks are allowed to get tall, the wax can get very hot. In these cases, when the candle is extinguished and the pool cools, it is likely that it will solidify with a ‘crack’ in the surface because of the cooling process.
This is not a problem; it is simply the reaction of ‘heating and cooling’ causing expansion and contraction. When you re-light your candle, just watch the length of the candle wick(s) and make sure it does not get too tall as the pool fills the crevice. You can always stuff some pieces of wax in the crevice or next to the wick in the pool. The flame will quickly melt it and bring the level up.
Still Having a Problem?
If you experience any problems with your Original Pheylonian Beeswax Candle, please feel free to call us on our toll free line at 1-877-445-6942 or Contact Us via email.
